Nina Ricci Fall 2025: All About Yves
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For Harris Reed, a single image can spawn an entire collection. For fall, he was inspired by a black-and-white Helmut Newton photo of a woman on the hood of a car, dressed in head-to-toe Nina Ricci. It’s from the same mid-‘70s period as Newton’s iconic shot of two women kissing on a Paris street, one wearing a black tuxedo by Yves Saint Laurent, the other completely nude. Maybe that’s why the collection carried a whiff of Saint Laurent, though the palette of clashing jewel tones brought to mind the label’s later Tom Ford era. Maybe it was because the show was styled by Carine Roitfeld, who helped Ford define the porno-chic trend. Models walked along a black gravel runway dotted with faux street lamps dressed in slipdresses with plunging necklines and cleavage-baring tops. “It’s a bit sassy. It’s a bit raunchy in the most playful of ways,” Reed said during a preview. You May Also Like He credited Roitfeld with helping him to loosen up in his fifth season at the French fashion house. “I can have a fantasy and a dream and an interpretation, but obviously she has the experience and the spirit of what it is to be a French woman, and I feel like I’ve really leaned into that this season,” the London-based designer said. Ditching his Jolie Madame aesthetic of matching suits and allover prints, he mixed colors and textures: men’s tailoring with boudoir lace, featherlight chiffon with chunky faux fur. Unlike many heritage houses, Nina Ricci doesn’t have a big archive. As a result, documentation is scarce and its designs are often mistaken for those of other brands, Reed said. That has advantages and disadvantages. On the one hand, he can make it about whatever he likes. This season, a belted zebra-print coat was inspired by the ‘70s wardrobe of Ali MacGraw, while satin negligees were an homage to Michelle Pfeiffer in “Scarface.” On the other, Ricci risks looking like a copy of its larger rivals, even when it’s referencing itself. Collection Gallery 38 Photos View Gallery Reed was wise to hang on to his signature androgynous tailoring, which is one of the brand’s current strengths. Standouts included an ivory three-piece suit worn with a citrine fake fur stole, and high-waist full pants with built-in corsets that were paired with sheer chiffon blouses. Other forays into naked dressing included terrific gowns covered in sparkly fringe — but even if it’s fun to dust off her good-girl image, the Nina girl doesn’t need to let it all hang out.
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